Alexander McQueen: What can we say? This is just spectacular… Didn't know such well crafted and detailed work would still exist on earth. Such detail. Every garment is a relic. these are definitely museum pieces. They simply take our breathe away.
Felipe Oliveira Baptista: Felipe has shown us incredible textures and architecture looking perfect with amazing platform shoes. He's portuguese, as we are, and we are very proud with his evolution.
Balmain: The embroidery beading work continues in this collection as we are used to, though it was a very dated, very 80's collection almost "Dynasty" like. Are we prepared to have the 80's back again after the 2007/10 80's fever? We don't think so...
Fashion East: A very happy and pop collection with Elvis and poster dresses, fish and bear bags, white and pink lace and colorful fur. A very humorous, subversive mundane approach.
Rick Owens: We see lots of layers, the silhouettes are so Rick Owens… lean and tall or structured boxy figures. The show itself muss have been an interesting one to assist. The models walk through a tunnel of wind with their hairs blowing. Dramatic but raw as we are used by Rick Owens.
Viktor and Rolf: This is a very feminine and wearable collection. The signature bow is present. Maybe in a commercial strategy, it is not the over the top show and collections we are used to, in the past nor the luxury garments from the past seasons. We see a much more fresh approach that can be worn in the streets.
House of Holland: The designer, Henry Holland, calls this collection "rave nana" and what catches the eye are the psychedelic, retro prints and colors. Each piece is really wearable, very easy going and casual but funky.
Simone Rocha: It's like bubblegum and Sophia Coppola's movies. Beautiful, sensible, innovative, perfect amount of drama. The shoes are stunning, as always. We love how she reinvents eternal trends and shapes and brings it to a new dimension. We could wear the whole collection.
Chloé: Well tailored, almost menswear elegant cuts on jackets, coats or pants, balanced with contemporary fits and feminine lace skirts. Very contemporary and clean collection.
Yves Saint Laurent * : What a disaster! We don't get where Hedi Slimane wants to the take the house of Yves Saint Laurent. Where is the brand code? The collection is a grunge, unimaginative, ordinary flop. There is no innovation, the clothes almost reminds us of everything we see in department stores. Is it some kind of anarchic joke? We wonder how long will Slimane be kept as head designer for the brand. At least now the brand is being talked about... is this marketing?
* we are so pissed with what Hedi is doing that we refuse to use the current denomination.
Chanel: Here is a perfect example of how to create and look into the future having a legacy in mind. Karl never loses the Chanel signature. The clothes look chic and original. He has not been hugely creative but we respect his work, always.
