Tuesday, March 5, 2013

Collections: Fashion Week F/W 13 Review (Part 1)

Rodarte: It is an 80's and 90's nostalgic collection. Emphasis on the tie dyed, the oversized jackets or the soft, flowy, girlie dresses with chunky shoes. Thumbs up for Rodarte and for the styling.

Thom Browne: A great collection from the artistic point of view. Something between Alice in Wonderland and Hitchcock. The red roses over the neutral colors gave it a dramatic look. The exaggerated shoulders, waists and skirts make this collection fit in the surreal category.

Tom Ford: This Collection from Tom Ford is hanging on the line between good taste and bad taste. The prints flow from ethnic to manga to florals to animal. The issue is there are prints and embroidery all over the place. Some of the clothes alone, extracted from the looks, can work and are beautifully executed. 

Alice + Olivia: We see Arts and Crafts gaining legs and traveling to China. Classic sillouetes but good textures and patterns. It is not incredible, but it will work for sales.

Meadham Kirchhoff: Meadham Kirchhoff bring us story teller collections. These garments seem to be taken off fairytales or the historical past. In this collection we can see a little more restrain, both in the colors (monochromatic) as in some of the looks, as there is some kind of a religious and sacred weight hovering over these models given through the styling.

Roksanda Ilincic: Pink, colorful fur and midi skirts seem to be the thing to wear next season. The collection varies from well made heavy fabric dresses and skirts with beautiful embroidery to soft and light dresses with a 90's appeal.

Burberry Prorsum: Oh, here we go again… The plastic stuff and transparencies are fine, but hearts and studds? One thing is certain, you will definitely catch your share of Burberry at Primark. Coats are great because they're always the same. Boring. Good stripes ensemble, anyway.

Kenzo: Kenzo collections have surprised us by its freshness in the last seasons. We've been seeing the famous tiger sweatshirt on the streets all around. In this collection the eye motif is cleverly incorporated and sticks in our memory. The crossed cut jackets and the round cuts, the mix of prints and textures are some of the things everyone into fashion is looking forward to wear.

Balenciaga: First Alexander Wang for Balenciaga was kind of a disappointment if we think about usual Balenciaga iconic collections. Wang went on a safe path, although we think that some of the shapes are ugly. Overall the collection is not amazing. Shoes are great, though. Wang knows how to do them.

Haider Ackermann: The juxtaposition of oversized clothing is stunning and surprisingly elegant. Perfect colours and patterns. Victorian cuts are transformed and worn with streetwear cuts. Beautiful cinched jackets.

Dolce Gabbana: Sicily meets 50's meets Byzantine. Powerful, precious clothes with incredible accessories that look like religious relics.

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